Costa Rica's Northern Lowlands
Looking for a unique travel experience? This is one of the least visited areas of Costa Rica. Because it is more off-the-beaten-path than many other destinations in Costa Rica, it is a great place to experience some of what Costa Rica used to be like before the tourist boom. I love guided nature tours and am happy to recommend them, including the one offered at Helconia Island. I also recommend a tour of the Cano Negro Wildlife Refuge. Watching for raptors and crocs on the same tour is a hoot.
Historically this was a region that was impacted by seasonal rains and it flooded often, but in recent years, the area has been reshaped by farms.
This area is mainly composed of the agri-business where corn, rice, beans and sugar cane are grown.
Travel highlights of the Northern Lowlands
- The Cano Negro Wildlife Refuge: Visitors can watch raptors and spoonbills in a croc infested swamp area.
- Rio San Juan: A remote spot where visitors can take a boat ride along the river. The boundaries are Costa Rica and Nicaragua.
- Sarapiquis Neotropical Center: A dangling 267m (880 ft) suspension bridge connects the center to Tirimbina Rainforest. This educational center offers a museum of indigenous culture and an archaeological park with nature trails.
- Selva Verde: A dedicated nature lodge that offers instant access to wildlife-rich terrain, this spot is perfect for hiking and canoeing the Rio Sarapiqui.
- Helconia Island: Take a guided tour of this beautifully landscaped botanical garden where sniffing fragrant rare blossoms is the primary way to pass the time.
The Cano Negro Wildlife Refuge
The Cano Negro Wildlife Refuge is the northern lowlands most remote refuge that is frequented by anglers and birders.
Anglers come from April through July to catch snook and tarpon while birders come from January through March to watch waterfowl.
During the dry season, water levels drop and birds concentrate in closer quarters making it easier to spot them and take photos.
The Rio Frio defines the landscape, as it creates wetlands during the wet season and then contracts during the dry months. It can get so dry during the dry months that the river is barely navigable.
The stability of the reserve is in dangers as the bird count is at an all-time low. Illegal hunting, poaching and logging operations are causing the demise of this reserve where caimans are dangerously low and trees disappearing at an alarming rate.
Activities in Cano Negro Wildlife Refuge
- Birding at Cano Negro, a premier birders destination in Central America, is a top activity in this refuge. Birds such as herons, egrets, ibis, rails kingfishers, roseate spoonbills, storks, anhingas are commonly found.
- Watching wildlife such as reptiles and freshwater turtles with a local guide is an excellent way to see this sensitive area.
- Sport fishing in the lagoons and canals of the area is not yet internationally popular, but this is one of the finest freshwater fishing spots in the world. The lagoons in the area have tarpon that weigh up to 80kg (200 lbs). There are good quality accommodation and services in the area.
La Virgen
Located in the densely jungled shores of the wild and scenic Rio Sarapiqui, La Virgen is a small town dependent on the river for a living. Fishing and guiding gringos is the primary livelihood.
This is one of the best kayaking and rafting destinations in Costa Rica. This town is an off-the-beaten path travel paradise offering a dedicated group of hard-core rafters and kayakers the chance to run this river. There are good quality services and guides for fishing are available.
Travel sights & activities in La Virgen
- White water rafting is the primary reason to visit this town.
- Hiking from La Virgen to the southernmost rangers stations in the Braulio Carrillo National Park is for the rugged adventurer.
- Kayaking on the river where there are easy launches and free kayak storage.
- Visiting the local snake garden (Serpentario) where visitors can come face-to-face with 60 different species of reptiles and amphibians, including the anaconda.
Sarapiquis Neotropical Center
Located about 2-km (1.25 mi) east of La Virgen is the Sarapiquis Neotropical Center, a unique ecolodge whose aim it is to develop sustainable travel and tourism.
If you are not able to stay the lodge, it is worth visiting the lodge's Alma Ata Archaeological Park, the Rainforest Museum of Indigenous Culture and the Sarapiquis Gardens. The archaeology is about 600 years old and there are 70 small stone sculptures being excavated. It's a small site but gives a nice feel for pre-Columbian history.
The museum chronicles the history of the rain forest through a mixture of displays and videos where Costa Rican indigenous artifacts are on display.
The gardens contain the largest scientific collection of medicinal plants in Costa Rica.
After the tour of the museum, visitors can enter the Tirimibina Rainforest Center, a private 300-hectare (740-acre) reserve, where a suspension bridge crosses 267m (880 ft) over the Rio Sarapiqui. There are 6-km (3.5 mi) of trails on the reserve and an island in the middle of the river. Guided tours to spot bats and birds are offered and visitors can learn about cacao plantations.
Boating on the Rio San Juan
Boating down the Rio Sarapiqui to the Rio San Juan is a memorable trip and comes recommended by several travel guide books. On this trip, it's possible to see crocodiles and river turtles. There's an abundance of birds. And, even the sloths come down to the water. There's a combination of rainforest and deforested zones, as well as ranches.
Selva Verde
An elegant lodge that was formerly a finca, this protected 200-hectare (500-acre) rainforest houses a river lodge, which is elevated on wooden platforms. The lodge works with Elderhostel in North America and offers educational opportunities and guided tours, which non-guests can enjoy for a fee.
La Selva Biological Station
La Selva Biological Station is a working biological research station that is well equipped with laboratories, experimental plots, a herbarium and extensive library. This station is filled with scientists and students who use the station as a headquarters for researching the nearby private reserve.
La Selva is operated by the Organization for Tropical Studies which was founded in 1963 to provide leadership in education and research. Many well-known tropical ecologists have trained at La Selva.
Heliconia Island
Heliconia Island is arguably the most beautiful garden in Costa Rica and is considered to be a masterpiece of landscape architecture. It was started by a New Yorker, a former professor of art and design, who turned this two-hectare island into a beautiful garden housing 80 varieties of heliconia, tropical flowers, plants and trees and 228 species of birds. Garden residents also include howler monkeys and river otters.
Tim Ryan, the owner, will guide visitors through the gardens on a 1.5 hour tour with the option to have lunch afterwards.
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